Vietnam is a country steeped in its past. Tourists flock to the vibrant and progressive Ho Chi Minh City in the south, as well as the more traditional Hanoi in the north. In central Vietnam, Hoi An and Da Nang are the major spots. In this region you’ll also find Hue, an under-the-radar hidden gem. Often overlooked, it’s one of the most important historical cities in Vietnam, built around Hue’s Imperial City and citadel.
History of Hue, Vietnam
Hue (pronounced “hway”) is located in central Vietnam, roughly 2 hours north of Da Nang. It’s the former imperial capital of Vietnam and dates back to the 2nd century B.C. Cutting through the city is the Huong River (aka the Perfume River), which separates the citadel and Imperial City from the new city.
Ownership of Hue was forever changing hands between China and the Vietnamese people until 1306 when Dai Viet (present-day Vietnam) finally took over. The rule of the Vietnamese royals, the Nguyen family, began in 1558. They controlled central and southern Vietnam until 1802. It was at this point that Prince Nguyen Anh became emperor Gia Long. The Nguyen dynasty had 13 emperors, with the final being Bao Dai, who ruled from 1926 to 1945.
During World War II, Hue was under Japanese occupation. Vietnam gained independence on September 2, 1945, and Saigon (now Ho Chi Minh City) was chosen as the new capital in 1949.
Hue saw major conflicts in the proceeding years. Not only the First Indochina War (1946 – 1954) but also civil unrest in the 60s, which was then followed by The Vietnam War. Much of the city was destroyed in 1968 during the Battle of Hue, with many buildings in the citadel and Imperial City being lost forever.
Hue: The Imperial City
Hue’s Imperial City is one of 7 UNESCO Heritage Sites in Vietnam. It’s categorized under the “Complex of Hue Monuments”, which are a series of protected historical sites around Hue. The Imperial City took 27 years to build. Construction began in 1805 under emperor Gia Long and was completed in 1832 by his successor, emperor Minh Mang.
The city is a 520-hectare walled enclosure. It’s inside the citadel of Hue, which is locally referred to as Dai Noi. The walls span 10 kilometers around, rising 6.6 meters (21 feet) high, and 21 meters thick. Surrounding the Imperial City is a moat that takes water from the Perfume River. This provided protection from invaders, in addition to artillery, canons, and ammunitions. Its reinforced build allowed for the Vietnamese royals to live undisturbed in their opulence.
The Imperial City was heavily destroyed during years of war, especially The Vietnam War. Of the 160 buildings it once housed, less than 10 percent remain. Restoration efforts have been successful in returning a few of the structures to their former glory. But there are still areas that lie in ruin and disrepair. Upon your visit, you’ll be able to see the battle-scarred walls of the citadel still covered in bullet holes some 70+ years later.
The following structures were either untouched by war or have been restored:
- Ngo Mon Gate: The Merdian Gate (aka the South Gate) is one of the most recognizable images of the Imperial City. Across from it is the Flag Tower (Ky Dai), a large monument that was built in 1807 and now flies the Vietnam flag.
- Thai Hoa Palace: Aka The Palace of Supreme Harmony, this palace is the first you’ll see once you pass through the south gate. Along with its courtyard, it was used for important ceremonies during the Nguyen dynasty.
- To Mieu Temple: A predominantly red temple with gold accents that you can explore. Its function was to worship kings, queens, and previous generations of the Nguyen dynasty.
- Kien Trung Palace: Once an opulent palace for emperors Khai Dinh and Bao Dai. Unfortunately, all that remains is its foundation after taking heavy damage during the Vietnam War.
- The Royal Treasury: This building was where the Nguyen family stored its money. It was rebuilt in the early 1900s and has a decidedly European design. This is attributed to the decades of French colonization Vietnam was subjected to.
- The Royal Theater: Duyet Thi Duong is the oldest theater in the country, built in 1826 with restoration in the early 2000s. It was used for music performances and has costumes and masks on display.
- The Royal Reading Room: Thai Binh Lau is the Royal Reading Room, a building that emperors used as a retreat when they needed downtime.
- Co Ha Garden: These gardens are located in the northeast section, and were once the site of study for young Nguyen princes. It sees less foot traffic than most of the Imperial City, making it a peaceful place to relax during your visit.
- Dien Tho Palace: This palace is the residence of the emperor’s mother and grandmother, located west of the Imperial City. It includes various buildings such as the smaller Tho Ninh Palace, as well as Ta Truong Du which was built on a small lake. Along with a courtyard, the salvageable buildings in this compound have been impeccably preserved.
Tickets to The Imperial City
A ticket to The Imperial City costs 150,000 VND ($6.60 USD) for adults and 30,000 VND ($1.30 USD) for children. You can purchase tickets at the entrance gate. Hours during the summer months are 6:30 am to 5:30 pm, while the winter hours are 7 am to 5 pm.
Hue & The Vietnam War
Hue was the site of one of the bloodiest and most pivotal battles during the Vietnam War. It lasted 31 days (January 31 to March 2, 1968) resulting in mass casualties and almost total destruction of the city.
At the time, Hue was Vietnam’s third-largest city and home to roughly 140,000 residents. During the Tet Offensive of the Vietnam War, North Vietnamese PAVN-VC forces launched a series of coordinated attacks throughout the country designed to “liberate” Vietnam and put the communists in power. Hue was a major city, and therefore a prime target.
They wanted to capture Tay Loc Airfield and Mang Ca Garrison (the South Vietnamese ARVN headquarters) which were both inside the Citadel. PAVN-VC forces also went after the U.S. MACV (Military Assistance Command, Vietnam) Compound across the river. This compound provided fire and logistical support for ARVN troops.
The North Vietnamese quickly captured most of the city. U.S. and ARVN troops went door to door to flush them out, which brought about intense firefights, destroying buildings and killing innocent civilians. It’s believed that around 2,800 people were executed by the PAVN-VC. While the U.S. and ARVN forces ultimately reclaimed the citadel, the scars left on it and Hue were staggering. 5,000 to 7,000 civilians dead, 5,133 PAVN-VC forces killed, and 668 dead U.S./ARVN forces with another 3,707 wounded.
Hue For Foodies
Vietnamese food is exotic and delicious. Local dishes use with fresh ingredients and are easy on the wallet. Different regions offer their own specialty cuisines. Be sure to try the following when you visit Hue.
Bun Bo Hue
Vietnam is big on soups and Bun Bo Hue is beef noodle soup. Its main ingredients consist of rice vermicelli noodles, beef, pork, lemongrass, congealed pig’s blood, fermented shrimp sauce, and spices. The noodles are cylindrical, in contrast to the flat noodles of pho, Vietnam’s most recognizable dish. Restaurants offer mild or spicy seasoning in your Bun Bo Hue. The mixture of spices, salt, and umami flavors makes it an extremely popular soup. Depending on the restaurant, Bun Bo Hue may also be served with flavor enhancers such as onions, basil, mint, cilantro, and lime.
Banh Beo
Banh Beo translates to “water fern cakes” and is served in a small saucer-like bowl. Its ingredients are rice flour, tapioca flour, salt, and water. Traditionally, Banh Beo is an appetizer, but even if you’re dining alone you’ll have anywhere between 12 and 15 servings to contend with. Banh Beo is topped with scallion oil and fried shrimp threads for texture and flavor. You can also add nuoc cham, which is a traditional Vietnamese fish sauce used in many dishes.
Com Hen
Com hen is a Vietnamese dish native to Hue and eaten almost daily by locals. It’s basically baby clams and rice with extra ingredients for flavor enhancement. These can be all or some of the following: garlic, chili, basil, sprouts, roasted peanuts, fried pork skin, annatto oil, fried onions, star fruit, spices, shrimp paste, roasted sesame seeds, and fish sauce. A separate broth accompanies the dish. Pouring the broth into the bowl of “dry food” creates the dish. Visit Com Hen Hoa Dong on Vy Da island for some of the best in the city.
Hue’s Imperial City: Worth It
Although Hue’s Imperial City is a shadow of its former self, restoration efforts have made it a must-see stop. Those who appreciate important historical sites should put Hue on their radar when traveling through Vietnam. Along with The Imperial City, you can visit other important sites in the Complex of Hue Monuments, and eat delicious food while doing so.
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