Riding a motorbike in Southeast Asia is the most common way locals get around. If you know how to ride, you can see some awe-inspiring places just by hopping on a bike and getting lost. In Vietnam, one of the country’s hidden gems is the Ha Giang Loop. Learning how to bike the Ha Giang Loop will lead to lifelong memories that few adventure destinations can top.
What Is The Ha Giang Loop?
Ha Giang is a province in northern Vietnam which borders China. It covers an area of 7,929 km² and is home to over 850,000 people. Inside Ha Giang Province is the small city of Ha Giang, which is 135 km² and home to 55,000 residents. It’s in this city where most people start and end their trip when biking the Ha Giang Loop. The Ha Giang Loop is a circular route north of Ha Giang city. It spans 350 kilometers and takes you through a mixture of scenic mountain passes, rice fields, small towns, and villages. The natural beauty of this area has begun to attract more travelers, but it’s still relatively unspoiled when it comes to tourism.
Hanoi To Ha Giang
The closest major city to Ha Giang is Hanoi. Unfortunately, there’s no direct train or flight route to Ha Giang. The cheapest way to get to Ha Giang from Hanoi is by bus. It takes 6 hours and costs roughly $10 USD. If you can swing it, splurge on the more expensive (and luxurious) day bus rather than the crammed (and uncomfortable) overnight sleeper bus. For some travelers exploring Vietnam on a motorbike from south to the north, moving through Hanoi to Ha Giang is a natural progression. But for most people, they’ll make their base in the city of Ha Giang, which puts you right at the start of the loop.
Is Biking The Ha Giang Loop Safe?
The Ha Giang Loop sees much less traffic than you’d find in major cities like Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City, but that’s not to say it’s 100% safe. If you think riding a motorbike is unsafe in general, or you’re brand new to riding, you should not bike the Ha Giang Loop. The roads are mostly paved, but being a mountainous region, some sections are simply dirt/gravel. There’s a lot of inclines, declines, and hairpin turns you need to be mindful of. If you’re biking on the side of a cliff you may only have a metal guardrail (and sometimes not even that!) as protection in case you skid off the road. Additionally, The Loop is subject to road construction, and weather can be unpredictable as well.
Quick story: When I arrived at my accommodation on the first night, I encountered some other travelers, one of which took a pretty nasty spill on his bike during the day. He was a seasoned biker and skidded out on some loose gravel going around a turn. The result was a huge stone embedded into his hand. After he went for medical attention that evening, he was told he could no longer continue his trip with his compromised hand. The lesson? Never underestimate the roads.
I take travel safety very seriously. I’d never driven a motorbike before I visited Ha Giang. While it was intimidating at times, I never felt like I couldn’t handle it. If I did, I wouldn’t have done it. I felt that as long as I drove defensively and took my time, I’d be fine. By the end of the first day, I felt pretty comfortable with my driving skills. Sure, people were whizzing by me at times, but all I was focused on was getting home in one piece.
How Many Days?
You can bike the Ha Giang Loop in 3 days, but a minimum of 4 days is best. Some people take 5 or 6 days to soak it all in. This is because there are a few optional routes that can be explored if you want to see more of the area. Additionally, if you take your time, you can enjoy the trip and not feel rushed. One thing that’s an absolute must is being off the mountain before sunset. There are no street lights on the mountain roads, so it’s important you don’t get stuck driving on them in the pitch black.
What Time Of Year Is Best?
If you want optimal conditions, visit the Ha Giang Loop during the dry months, namely October, November, March, and April. The winter months of December to February can have decent weather, but it gets very cold the more north you go, and it will rain. The monsoon season is June and July and it’s best to avoid The Loop during these months. I went in January and got caught in frigid weather and rain on top of that. While that was just one day of my trip, it still made for extremely challenging driving conditions. If you can go in the optimal weather months, I’d highly recommend it.
What To See On The Ha Giang Loop?
Natural beauty is all around you on The Loop, but you might want to take some extra time to visit the following places:
- Bac Sum Pass: Roughly 30 kilometers from Ha Giang, the Bac Sum Pass is the first major mountain pass you’ll encounter, setting the stage for what’s to come.
- Heaven’s Gate (Quan Ban): A breathtaking overview of the Tam Son Valley and Bac Sum Pass, you can stop here for some refreshments while taking in the scenery.
- Yen Minh: A small town on The Loop that most travelers stay in during the first night of the trip.
- Chin Khoanh: A privately owned viewpoint. It costs 10,000 VND ($0.44 USD), which is entirely reasonable for the photos you’ll come back with.
- Lung Cu: Located off the Ha Giang Loop, Lung Cu is in the very north of Vietnam, and takes you right to the border of China.
- Dong Van: Another small town that most travelers stay the night in. On Sundays, they have a very popular morning market.
- Ma Pi Lang Pass (Nho Que River): Possibly the most popular stop on The Loop. The Ma Pi Lang Pass has stunning views of the mountains and valley floor, which is split by the Nho Que River.
- Meo Vac: While there’s not much to do in this small town, it’s another resting spot for the evening.Â
- Du Gia Waterfall: Located on the way back to Ha Giang, it’s another prime photography spot that you can swim in if you need to cool off.
Prepare For The Loop
The Ha Giang Loop isn’t for the faint of heart. Like all mountainous regions, the weather is unpredictable. Here’s a list of things you should bring on your trip.
Clothes
The right clothing can make or break your trip. You should dress in layers and bring enough clothes for the duration of your trip. Pants and proper footwear are also important. If you do wipe out, wearing long clothing can save your skin from major damage. It’s also important to bring waterproof gear as well. A proper rain jacket, waterproof pants, and gloves. If you get caught in a downpour it can be tricky (and dangerous) to navigate your bike when your hands and handlebars are soaked.
Backpack
Riding a motorbike means your luggage options are limited. The easiest way to bring everything you need on your trip is with a backpack. As you’ll be riding anywhere from 6 to 8 hours a day, having your backpack secured to your bike is recommended to spare you back pain. Make sure you also invest in a waterproof cover for your pack so that your belongings don’t get soaked should you encounter any rain. I’d also advise you to carry a small first aid kit with you, in case you or your fellow riders need quick medical attention.
Riding Gear
If you’re relatively new to riding, seriously consider wearing protective equipment. A helmet is mandatory, but most rental places also offer guards for your forearms, elbows, and shins, as well as gloves at no extra cost. Use them. While you might feel like a bit of a tool, they will save you in case you have an accident. Besides, no one is paying attention to your fashion choices on The Loop. Many travelers opt to wear protective gear, and to be honest, all travelers should. A bike accident is the quickest way to put a damper on your trip, so be extra cautious when you can. Sunglasses are also a must to protect your eyes from the sun, bugs, dirt, and pebbles. I’d also advise you to bring sunscreen to protect your exposed skin from UV rays.
Offline Maps
The Ha Giang Loop is a straightforward run, as the main road is a circular route that ends up back where you started. There are certain sections of The Loop that branch off should you feel like wandering off the main road. Do yourself a favor and download an offline Google Map of Ha Giang province. Your phone’s data will be spotty at the best of times in the mountains. As a further backup, your accommodation in Ha Giang should have a paper map you can keep with you as well.
Check The Weather
As previously mentioned, the weather on the loop can change quickly. One minute you could be riding in pure sunshine, and the next minute the temperature could drop to near freezing. Check the weather every day before you begin riding so you have an idea of what types of conditions to expect on the road. You can also prepare by having the necessary clothes ready if you need to add or remove articles at some point (which you will).
Camera
The whole point of biking the Ha Giang Loop is to have fun and enjoy it. You’ll most likely want to stop every 5 minutes to take photos of the dramatic scenery, so don’t forget to pack your camera. Remember to include the necessary accessories (charger, extra batteries, memory cards, etc.) so you don’t get caught on your trip with a non-functioning camera. If you have a GoPro, the loop is a great time to use it with a chest mount or helmet mount to capture your point of view. Another tip is to keep your camera in your seat storage compartment so it’s easily accessible.
Where To Stay On The Ha Giang Loop
Each night you’ll stay in a small town somewhere along the loop. On a 4-day trip, most travelers stay in Yen Minh on the first night, Dong Van on the second night, and Meo Vac on the third.Â
If you want to wing it and pick a place when you get to each town, you can definitely do that. On my 3 day trip, I pre-booked my accommodations ahead of time. However, the first night, my homestay had a family emergency and I had to be moved to a neighboring homestay. On the second night, the rain was so bad I never made it to my pre-booked accommodation in Meo Vac. I ended up paying for a cheap room at the first homestay I found in Dong Van just to get out of the rain and wet clothes.
The night before your trip (and at the end of your trip), I’d recommend you stay at Bong Hostel in Ha Giang. The facilities are clean, well-run, and the staff is very helpful. They do an orientation to explain everything you need to know while on the road and will take time individually if you have any questions. They also rent bikes, teach you how to ride them, and will take your group to the start of The Loop to send you on your way.
How Much Does It Cost?
Is biking the Ha Giang Loop expensive? Not in the slightest. Here’s a quick breakdown:
Bus tickets to/from Hanoi = 455,000 VND / $20 USD ($10 one way)
Motorbike Rental = 150,000 VND ($6.60 USD) per day
Bike Damage Insurance = 100,000 VND ($4.40 USD) per day
3-Day Trip Total = 750,000 VND ($33 USD)
*Refundable Deposit = 500,000 VND ($22 USD)
Accommodations:
Bong Hostel (Ha Giang) = 90,000 VND ($3.96 USD)
Eco Homestay (Yen Minh) = 80,000 VND ($3.52 USD)
Van Chien Homestay (Dong Van) = 50,000 VND ($2.20 USD)
Bong Hostel (Ha Giang) = 90,000 VND ($3.96 USD)
Total = 310,000 VND ($13.64 USD)
Grand Total = $1,515,000 VND ($66.68 USD)Â
Finally, there’s gas and food. You can make it to the major towns on a full tank of gas, but fill up when you’re there. Gas is very inexpensive. As long as you remember to do this you should have no problems with fuel. The food in Vietnam is also very cheap. If you eat local foods like banh mi, bun cha, and a basic breakfast, you’ll spend less than $10 USD/day.
Do The Loop!
When it comes down to it, learning how to bike the Ha Giang Loop is a must for adventure travelers. Yes, there are risks involved. Learn how to ride, prepare properly, and drive sensibly. You can then begin to plan your return trip and do it all over again.
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