Some places must be seen to be believed, and Pompeii is one of them. Once a thriving modern city of the Roman empire, it was wiped off the map and lost for thousands of years. Pompeii’s discovery and subsequent excavation have made it one of Italy’s top tourist attractions. The importance and historical significance of the site cannot be understated. Learn how to prepare for your visit with my Guide to Pompeii.
What Is Pompeii?
Pompeii is an ancient Roman city, located in the Campania region of southern Italy. It’s 25 minutes south of Naples (50 minutes northeast of Sorrento), off the Gulf of Naples coast. Looming over the entire region is Mount Vesuvius, a somma-stratovolcano. In 79 A.D., Vesuvius erupted, decimating Pompeii along with the nearby towns of Herculaneum, Torre Annunziata, and Stabiae. The eruption blanketed the town in searing volcanic ash, pumice, and poisonous gases.
Upon excavation in 1748, discoveries inside the site ranged from well-preserved buildings and shops, to coins, cookware, furniture, and skeletal remains. Today, Pompeii is an important archaeological site. It gained UNESCO status along with Herculaneum and Torre Annunziata in 1997. While it’s a massive 44 hectares, only two-thirds of Pompeii has been excavated. Funds have been focusing on restoration, as certain structures have become dilapidated due to weather exposure and tourism.
Visitors can freely explore Pompeii’s streets, buildings, houses, and even its famed amphitheatres. Pre-COVID, Pompeii welcomed anywhere from 2.5 to 4 million visitors per year.
History of Pompeii
Pompeii was settled near the Sarnus River between 9-8 century B.C. by the Osci people. These were descendants of the Neolithic inhabitants of the Campania region. Greeks settled across the river and their cultured ways quickly helped them gain influence over the city in the 8th century. Etruscans arrived in the 7th century and took over until their fall in a naval battle off the nearby coast of Cumae. Pompeii reverted back to Greek influence until the Samnites, a war-like Italic tribe, conquered the city (as well as Campania, Herculaneum, and Stabiae) in the 5th century. Their reign lasted until the end of the Samnite Wars, when Campania and Pompeii became allies of Rome and part of the Roman confederation.
90-89 B.C brought the conflict known as the Social War. This was an uprising of Rome’s allies (the Marsi people in the north and the Samnites in the south) against Rome. The allies fought with Rome in several wars and felt they should be granted Roman citizenship and the privileges it afforded. The conflict ended with the allies succeeding. However, due to their role in the conflict, Pompeii was subjected to a colony of Roman veterans taking up inside the city. The Oscan language was replaced with Latin, and Pompeii’s architecture, institutions, and culture were all Romanized.
Daily Life in Pompeii
Through various findings, archaeologists and historians have been able to piece together what daily life was like in Pompeii. The city had a population between 10,000 and 20,000 people and operated on a class system. Freeborn men made up of Senatorial and local elites stood above all. Freedmen (freed slaves) were underneath, followed by women and slaves.
Pompeii was built on fertile volcanic land. Once Roman influence took over, it led to a prosperous economy through agriculture. Capitalizing on trade, the cities inhabitants enjoyed a standard of living increase as well as newfound prestige.
Everyone worked in Pompeii, no matter their social class. With no electricity, daily life was dependent on the sun. Pompeii ran from 4:30 am to 6 pm, with an hour of leisure time at noon. Water was a major issue in the city, with most people taking it from public fountains early in the morning. Markets and shops provided daily necessities, similar to how goods are sold today. Public baths were built for everyone to stay clean, and Pompeii’s amphitheatres staged plays and Gladiator battles to keep the city entertained.
Mount Vesuvius Eruption
Mount Vesuvius’ eruption on August 1, 79 A.D. was preceded by 4 days of seismic activity. Pompeii’s inhabitants were used to this, as there was an earthquake on February 5, 62 A.D. that damaged a fair number of buildings in the city.
A surviving eyewitness account of the eruption comes from Gaius Plinius Caecilius Secundus aka Pliny The Younger. He was staying with his uncle, Pliny The Elder, a Roman fleet commander stationed near Naples when the eruption occurred. His account is on par with everything we know about volcanic eruptions today.
Historians estimate that most of the 2,000 people who died at Pompeii were killed within 15 minutes after Vesuvius erupted. A popular theory is that Pompeiians were simply not aware that the volcano could erupt. When it did, the noxious pyroclastic flow gases asphyxiated the inhabitants before 9 feet of ash covered over the site. This is evidenced in the “heat flash” poses many of the bodies were found in. Those who survived resettled in the surrounding towns of Cumae, Naples, Ostia and Puteoli.
Some historians believe that most Pompeiians were aware of how catastrophic a Vesuvius eruption would be. They theorize that after the earthquake in 62 A.D., many of the city’s inhabitants relocated. This may explain how there were relatively low casualties in a town of 10,000 to 20,000 people.
Pompeii Rediscovered
Pompeii was rediscovered in the late 16th century by Roman engineer Dominico Fontana while excavating a canal near the Sarnus River. Still, not much was done with the site until Charles VII gained power over the region in the 18th century. In 1748, he assigned Spanish military engineer Rocque Joaquin de Alcubierre the task of beginning excavations. Early digs were haphazard until 1860, when Italian archaeologist Giuseppe Fiorelli became director of the excavations. This is when greater care was given to the site. It was divided into regions, and all findings were thoroughly documented.
Visiting Pompeii
Interested in seeing Pompeii up close? Here are the answers to some of the most asked questions tourists have.
Should I Go Alone or With A Tour?
You should visit Pompeii however you feel most comfortable. Going alone is easy to do. It’s also the cheaper option. A tour will bring you to and from the site and also provide you with an informative guide. They take care of everything for you, making it a low-stress visit. There are many different tours you can choose from, with some visiting Pompeii, Herculaneum, and Mt. Vesuvius all on the same day. Only you know what suits your travel style.
How To Get To Pompeii
Most tourists that visit Pompeii usually stay in the nearby towns of Naples or Sorrento and take the train to the ruins. The train lines (especially Circumvesuviana) have an unfortunate reputation for pickpockets and theft. But as long as you keep an eye on your belongings you should have no problems. These are commuter trains, so they make several stops along the way.
If you’re staying in Rome, you can still visit Pompeii by taking a day trip. This will require you to ride Italy’s high-speed Frecciarossa or Freccibianca trains, which bring you to the Campania region in only a few hours.
Here’s how to get to the ruins from all three cities.
From Naples
By train: The main station in Naples is Napoli Centrale aka Napoli Piazza Garibaldi Station. It has two trains to Pompeii. The first is the aforementioned Circumvesuviana line, which takes roughly 35 minutes. At times, this train is very busy and there’s no A/C. If you need to ensure you have a seat, beat the crowds by hopping on at Napoli Porta Nolana Station. It’s a short 10-minute walk before the Napoli Centrale stop.
Your other option at Napoli Centrale is the Metropolitano line. This is a slightly more modern train with air conditioning that gets you to Pompeii in 38 minutes. Unlike Circumvesuviana, it doesn’t have a stop at Napoli Porta Nolana Station. Both trains run every 30 minutes, from 6 am to 10 pm, and cost only a few euros. Train tickets are available for purchase at the station.
If taking the Circumvesuviana train, get off at the Pompei Scavi/Villa dei Misteri stop, which is right outside Pompeii’s ruins. The Metropolitano train brings you to Pompei Station, which is a 10-minute walk from the ruins, in the modern town of Pompei (note the alternate spelling).
By bus: The local SITA bus is cheaper than the train, but it takes close to an hour to get from Naples to Pompeii. You can purchase tickets at the Nuova Marina Port SITA Bus Station, and then take the bus to the Pompeii Scavi SITA stop. There’s also FlixBus that charges under 10€ for a direct round trip from Naples in a more comfortable bus.
From Sorrento
By train: The only train from Sorrento is the Circumvesuviana train, which runs every 40 minutes and takes roughly 35 minutes to get to Pompeii. Purchase tickets at the Sorrento station, hop on Line 1, and take it to the Pompei Scavi/Villa dei Misteri stop. An alternate station just outside Sorrento is Sant’Agnello, which may be more convenient if it’s closer to your accommodation.
By bus: At the Sorrento train station you have the option of taking the SITA bus to Pompeii. It departs once or twice an hour, takes roughly 40 minutes, and only costs a few Euros.
From Rome:
By train: The trip from Rome to Pompeii takes 2.5 hours each way via Italy’s high-speed trains. The Frecciarossa or Freccibianca trains depart from Rome’s Termini Station multiple times per day. You’ll have plenty of amenities on board for the long commute, with WIFI, air-conditioning, and power outlets in addition to comfortable seats.
The one catch is that it only brings you to Naples. You’ll then switch to one of the local trains (Circumvesuviana or Metropolitano) to take you the rest of the way. Consult the train schedule and pre-book the high-speed train to save money.
By bus: While this is an option, it’s considerably slower and most people don’t even bother with it. You can book with either Flixbus or Marozzi VT, which leave multiple times per day from Rome’s Tiburtina Bus Station. While the buses take you directly to the ruins and are comfortable, the one-way journey can be upwards of 3 hours – and that’s in good traffic!
Ticket Information
Pompeii’s hours of operation are 9 am to 7 pm, with the last entry at 4:30 pm. You can purchase tickets at the gate, or you can buy them online. There are four types of tickets available:
Intero Ticket: This is the general admission ticket. It costs 16€ ($18.75 USD) online, whereas the price at the park is 15€ ($17.60 USD).
Ridotto Ticket: This is a cheap ticket for EU citizens between 18 to 24 years of age. It costs 3.50€ ($4.10 USD) online, or 2€ ($2.35 USD) at the gate.
Gratuito Ticket: This ticket is free. It’s for people with disabilities (and their guest), those under the age of 18, and students in specific courses.
Skip The Line Ticket: Pompeii’s official site doesn’t sell this ticket. A quick Google search returns plenty of third-party sellers for you to choose from. For a few euros more than the Intero ticket, you can skip the line when you arrive and gain access to Pompeii immediately. This is a great option for those on a time crunch, or if you simply hate waiting around. Additionally, any reputable tour will allow you to skip the line.
Do I Need A Guide?
You can tour Pompeii with a guide, or at your own leisure. If you aren’t familiar with Pompeii, an informative guide can explain what you’re seeing. If you go without a guide, be aware that there’s minimal information about the different structures. Unless you’ve done quite a bit of research, you’ll struggle to fully appreciate the ruins on your own.
Having said that, when I arrived at Pompeii I joined an English-speaking tour. While it was informative, I found that most of the time I struggled to hear what the tour guide was saying, but it didn’t help that I was lagging behind the group taking pictures. Additionally, they only touched on a few of Pompeii’s “main attractions”. Some small group/private tours cost a lot of money, but I opted for a low-priced, large group tour. You get what you pay for.
Another option is to rent an audio guide. This way you can move through the ruins at your own pace, and still get detailed information at each stop.
If you want to be super savvy about it, download the app Pompeii: A Day In The Past on your phone. It has multiple itineraries you can follow, includes a map, an audio guide, and it works offline. Pro tip: Remember to pack earbuds!
Which Entrance To Use?
There are 3 entrances to Pompeii: Porta Marina, Piazza Anfiteatro, and Piazza Esedra.
Porta Marina: This is the most popular tourist gate, which is located on the southwest corner of the site. It’s directly across the street from the Pompei Scavi train station. This gate provides visitors with general information, tour guides, audio guides, and souvenirs. As it’s the busiest entrance, it has the longest wait times.
Piazza Anfiteatro: Located on the opposite southeast corner, this gate is 15 minutes away from Porta Marina and sees considerably less foot traffic. You can get an audio guide at this gate and start your visit at the Amphitheatre.
Piazza Esedra: This gate is south of Porta Marina, with group tours given priority for quick entry. Depending on which route you take, you can start your tour near the Forum, or at the gladiator barracks.
When To Visit Pompeii?
The best weather for visiting Pompeii is in the months of March, April, and May, where the temperature hovers between 15°C and 21°C (60°F and 70°F). The comfortable weather during these months means you won’t be overheating while exploring.
The summer months of June, July, and August bring a lot of sunshine and plenty of heat. These months see anywhere from 27°C to 32°C temperatures (80°F and 90°F) and are the prime visiting months (aka lots of tourists). I visited during the first week of June and it was blazing hot.
September and October see the hot weather taper off but the temperature is still quite pleasant. Between November and March are the worst weather months, bringing cool temperatures and plenty of rain.
What To See In Pompeii
Due to its sheer size, there’s no way you’ll be able to see all of Pompeii in a single day. But no Guide to Pompeii would be complete without a quick rundown of its most famous sites. Here are a few of the most popular stops in this once-thriving city and vacation destination.
The Forum
The Forum is the most popular area of Pompeii. In ancient times, it acted as the town’s centerpiece. Due to Pompeii’s expansion, The Forum is now located in the western part of the city. All political and cultural activities took place here, and it’s suspected that the vast space also housed bathhouses and the Macellum, Pompeii’s lively food market. At the north end of the site, you’ll find The Temple of Jupiter ruins (pictured above) with Drusus and Germanicus arches on either side. Other buildings in this space include The Temple of Apollo, The Temple of Vespasian, The Basilica, The Granary (now storage for Pompeii’s archaeological findings), municipal buildings, and The Sanctuary of the Public Lares. The Forum aligns with Mount Vesuvius, which looms large in the background.
Houses of The Elites
Many houses in Pompeii are remarkably intact, the majority of which belonged to the social elite. Most follow the Roman Domus design: a house that separates an atrium from a peristyle courtyard. Some of the most popular in Pompeii are:
- House of Menander: Named for the Athenian playwriter whose fresco was found inside the home, it was owned by the Poppei family and is one of the largest and most elegant in Pompeii. It’s thought that the owner was an important aristocrat, as the 19,000 square foot size and penchant for fine art suggest. Found inside the home upon excavation were 18 bodies along with the skeletal remains of a dog.
- House of the Vettii: Owned by Freedmen Aulus Vettius Restitutus and Aulus Vettius Conviva, who was an Augustalis (Roman priest). The frescos in this Domus are its main attraction. They were completed after the 62 A.D. earthquake and have been impeccably preserved.
- House of Lovers: This is one of the most architecturally impressive homes in Pompeii, recently restored and reopened to the public after 40 years. It has a second floor and is covered in frescos and mosaics. It was named for the Latin inscription found on one of the home’s paintings that reads, “Lovers lead, like bees, a life as sweet as honey.”
- House of the Faun: Named for a dancing faun statue found inside the home (a copy has now replaced it), this house dates back to the Samnites rule in the 2nd century B.C. It’s one of the largest private residences in Pompeii at 33,000 square feet and takes up an entire city block. An inscription in the home suggests it belonged to the aedile (elected official) Satrius.
- Villa of Julia Felix: Another large residence in Pompeii, it belonged to Julia Felix, a prominent businesswoman. After the 62 A.D. earthquake damaged several buildings, she opened her private bath to the public, and also rented rooms to help alleviate the housing shortage.
Roman Baths
Public baths were the great leveler in Pompeii. Everyone used the baths, no matter their social status. While we correlate bathing with good hygiene, the citizens of Pompeii were frequently bathing in disease-ridden cesspools due to a lack of sanitation. Bathing facilities had an undressing room, along with individual rooms for cold, tepid, and steam baths. The most famous bathhouses in Pompeii are the Forum Baths and the Stabian Baths.
Amphitheatres
Pompeii is home to three ancient amphitheatres.
Two are located in the Theatre Area of Pompeii: the Large Theatre and the Odeon. The Large Theatre dates back to the 2nd century B.C., and seats 5,000 people. Its main use was for staging plays. The Odeon was a smaller, covered theatre holding 1,500 people and used for council meetings.
In the southwest corner of the city sits the Amphitheatre of Pompeii, one of the first stone Roman amphitheatres built in 70 B.C. It predates the Colosseum in Rome and has a seating capacity of 20,000. This amphitheatre allowed all of Pompeii’s residents to enjoy circus shows, chariot races, gladiator battles, and animal hunts regardless of social class. More recently, the venue has held concerts by Pink Floyd, Frank Sinatra, David Gilmour, and King Crimson.
Brothels
The world’s oldest profession was both legal and socially accepted in ancient Pompeii. The Lupanar of Pompeii is the most famous of the city’s 25 brothels. It takes its name from the Roman word “lunapar” which translates to wolf den. In ancient times, a female prostitute was referred to as a “lupa” or she-wolf.
Inside the brothels were erotic paintings, some of which depicted the menu one could order from. Customers would then leave reviews by scratching graffiti into the brothel’s walls. Erotic art is common in Pompeii, from phallic stone carvings on the streets to erotic frescos in everyday homes.
Plaster Casts
During excavation efforts in 1860, Italian archeologist Giuseppe Fiorelli realized that soft ashes were actually cavities where people died. He filled them with plaster, which resulted in Pompeii’s infamous plaster cast bodies. Contrary to popular belief, these plaster casts do contain the victim’s bones. Most of the bodies (even dogs and pigs) are in a type of rigor mortis pose as a result of the intense heat. While unsettling, it’s a fascinating technique that allows for a glimpse into Pompeiians’ final moments.
Tips For Visiting Pompeii
The majority of Pompeii is outdoors. This means you’re in the elements for hours at a time. Use these tips to help you enjoy your visit:
1. Stay Hydrated
Staying hydrated is a must. The long walks and blazing summer heat will have you sweating non-stop, and losing valuable fluids in the process. Dehydration causes you to become overly tired and light-headed. Bring a refillable water bottle with you. There are water stations around Pompeii for you to use. I’d also recommend bringing electrolyte tablets to drop into the bottle. Electrolytes are salts and essential minerals such as sodium, calcium, magnesium, potassium, and chloride. They’ll bring your body back into balance, and replenish your energy levels.
2. Bring Snacks
While Pompeii has plenty to see, they are lacking in one major area: food. There’s basically a single cafeteria located near Pompeii’s Forum. The food here is nothing spectacular, but it’s enough to keep you fed. While the price is slightly expensive, it’s reasonable considering they have a monopoly when it comes to feeding tourists. Pack some healthy snacks to keep you going during the day. These will come in handy, especially if you find yourself far away from The Forum. Food stalls are also located near some of the entrances. You can purchase food from them before entering the site. Note: Pompeii does not grant in and out privileges.
3. Prepare For The Elements
Pompeii has some shaded areas, but for the most part, you’re at the mercy of Mother Nature. Two musts are sunglasses and sunblock. Follicly challenged tourists should wear a hat or some sort of head covering. If you’re going during the rainy months (October to March), I’d recommend tossing a small umbrella in your backpack. Some tourists even use an umbrella for shade during the summer months.
4. Wear Comfortable Shoes
The only way to get around Pompeii is on foot. Make sure you’re capable of walking a lot, and that you have proper footwear. Ditch the flip-flops, sandals, and slides. Pompeii’s streets are all stone or dirt/gravel. I wore hiking shoes when I went and I nearly rolled my ankle stumbling over a sidewalk crevice. A foot/ankle/leg injury will spell the end of your visit. Shoes that provide the right amount of support to your feet and ankles are imperative. Also, remember to break them in before your trip so you don’t develop blisters.
5. Bring Your Camera
Pompeii is a photographer’s paradise. You may have to wait for large crowds to pass, but for the most part, you’ll be able to photograph the ruins however you’d like. If you seek out areas that are less visited, you’ll most likely be the only one there. At one point on my visit, I had the entire amphitheatre to myself! Bring your cameras, your lenses, your tripod, extra batteries, and memory cards. You’ll have a blast shooting here.
6. Map It Out
Upon entrance, pick up a map of Pompeii to guide you through the site. If you forget, download a PDF map or the Pompeii: A Day In The Past app before you visit. Having a better idea of what there is to see, and what you want to see, will save you a ton of time. Plan things out beforehand to maximize your time during your visit.
Discover Pompeii
Following a Guide to Pompeii prepares you for your trip. Use the insight of those that have gone before you. From transportation options, tour guides, and purchasing tickets, you’ll have a better understanding of everything involved when visiting this ancient Roman city. You’ll then be able to spend your visit exploring it to the fullest.
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